GCE Product Design (Textiles) 2560 TEXT1 Unit Guidance

hij Teacher Resource Bank GCE Product Design (Textiles) 2560 TEXT1 Unit Guidance The Assessment and Qualifications Alliance (AQA) is a company limited by guarantee registered in England and Wales (company number 3644723) and a registered charity (registered charity number 1073334). Registered address: AQA, Devas Street, Manchester M15 6EX. Dr Michael Cresswell, Director General.

GCE D&T Product Design: Textiles (TEXT 1) Summer 2009 June 2009 saw the first full entry for this paper which is based on the full specification content for the AS examination. AQA also offers this paper in January, but candidates attempting it after only one term of the course often lack sufficient knowledge and understanding to meet the demands of the examination and are unable to respond to the questions in the depth required at this level of study. The written paper is worth 50% of the marks for the AS examination. Candidates need to be prepared to answer questions about basic textile materials and processes, and to respond with accurate and relevant detail. The paper is in three parts: Section A is short answer questions; candidates select one of the two Section B questions which require longer responses, and Section C has a mix of short and longer questions accounting for 50% of the paper marks. It is expected that candidates will spend about 30 minutes on each of Sections A and B, leaving an hour to answer the questions in Section C, many of which will require detailed responses. A well prepared candidate should be able to work through Section A in 20 minutes, allowing a few extra minutes for reading through the paper or for Section C. Candidates should be encouraged to respond through diagrams where appropriate as they often include creditworthy points which are missed from a written explanation only. They are reminded to keep their answer within the boxes on the paper, using supplementary sheets as required. Section A 1 Examiners were surprised at the number of candidates who were unable to correctly place all 5 of the fibres. The most common errors were with Tactel and viscose. Only 30% of the candidates were able to score full marks on this question. 2 The question was about generic properties, not uses, of non-woven fabrics. The most popular response referred to the fact that non-woven fabrics do not fray but many candidates were under the mistaken impression that these fabrics are strong and/or good insulators, presumably from having made felt in coursework activities. Approximately 25% of candidates did not score any mark on this question. Full marks were awarded here as the candidate has identified that the fabrics do not fray and are cheap enough to be disposable. No marks were awarded as these are not generic properties of non-woven fabrics. 1

3 Many candidates were able to give one correct answer, usually related to the need to give strength to the yarn, but about 60% were unable to give a second reason. This candidate understands why twisting is necessary but the second point is a repeat of the first so was not given a mark. 4(a) This question, on basic fabric terms, was answered well by the majority of candidates, although almost 20% did not score any mark here despite this question having appeared on a previous paper. A sound explanation aided by sketches this was given 2 marks. This candidate is confused and unable to make a clear distinction between the two terms no marks were allowed. 2 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

4(b) Many confused and vague references to lines in a pattern and the arrangement of fibres in a fabric resulted in low scores for this question. A muddled description given a zero mark. This is a textbook definition. 5(a) Although there were many accurate descriptions of the pile fabric appearing to be different colours when viewed in certain directions, there were few references to the raised surface of a pile fabric. Only 20% of responses were awarded two marks. A sound attempt to explain directional pile this was given 2 marks. No marks were awarded here. 3

5(b) Candidates either knew the names of typical fabrics with a directional pile or made inaccurate guesses. Velvet was universally popular whilst denim was a common incorrect response. 6 Some well explained and accurate explanations although 33% of answers did not score any marks here. This candidate has a confused understanding of colour fastness and is unable to give a clear explanation of the term. An even more confused attempt to explain the term! A clear explanation worthy of 2 marks. 4 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

7 The topic of smart and modern textile materials is one that is not well understood by candidates and this type of question nearly always causes problems. Candidates should be advised to learn to differentiate between modern and smart, and be able to give examples of both types of fabric. Many candidates were able to give appropriate examples but not a definition of what is meant by a smart fabric. This candidate does not understand the term and is unable to provide a relevant example. No marks were given. A clear definition with appropriate example. Question 8 Section B 8(a) Responses were mixed and the question produced a good spread of marks. Some candidates showed detailed knowledge and understanding of the cotton content, and more candidates than in previous examinations related to the plain weave construction, and to the use of the bag. Many knowledgeable candidates clearly understood the fabric properties but failed to make a critical evaluation of its suitability for a bag. When responding to this type of question, candidates should be aware that they need to consider fabric structure as well as fibre content, and that the instruction to critically evaluate requires them to discuss the drawbacks as well as the positive points about the fabric. A number of candidates do not appear to have a clear understanding of the properties of this most basic of textile materials, as evidenced by the fact that about 20% of those answering this question scored one or less of the five marks available for this part. 5

This answer is not worth more than 2 marks. There are some valid points but these are generalised and not explained in terms of the fibre/fabric properties. This response would have earned a higher mark if the candidate had explained the tight interlacing of warp and weft in the plain weave in relation to durability, and cotton s absorbency in relation to dyeing. Many candidates state that cotton is a lightweight fabric, but this is not necessarily so and will depend on the density of the fabric construction; in this situation it is unlikely that a lightweight fabric would be used. There is some confusion in the reference to cotton fabric not holding its shape well, and the creasing. The diagram of the plain weave is not required and does not add anything to the answer. 7

8(b)(i) A lack of clear understanding of the properties of polyester, and failure to evaluate its use as a lining fabric meant that candidates did less well on this question. There is much confusion about polyester s lack of absorbency and its resilience; future candidates would do well to thoroughly learn and understand the properties and use of fabrics made from synthetic fibres. A very weak response which would fall into the very bottom end of the mark range. This is typical of the many answers having a clear lack of knowledge and understanding of the properties of polyester. When polyester fibre is linked to lining fabric, there are many candidates who believe that its function is to absorb any water which passes through the outer fabric in order to prevent further passage to the inside of the product. This response would be given a high mark as there is evidence of accurate knowledge of the properties of polyester lining which are clearly linked to the bag. 8 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

8(b)(ii) There were some well considered explanations as candidates had thought about the product and made relevant points. Reasons for lining a product has been a regular topic on AS papers in the past and detailed explanations are expected for high marks. This is a good response as a number of relevant points are made and these are related to a bag. A very poor explanation, with many misconceptions and inaccuracies. This answer was given a very low mark. 9

8(c) Good knowledge of topstitching and the reasons why it is used led to many high scoring answers. 8(d) Some very detailed and well considered explanations meant that over 50% of answers were awarded four or five marks. Good answers related the components to the colours and materials of the bag as well as the use. Weaker responses were very descriptive of the components and a number are still erroneously referring to pockets as components. This candidate has identified all of the components but with very little justification for their use. This is a weak answer which would be given a mark in the lower mark range. 10 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

A detailed response which covers the main components and provides clear justification for their use in relation to the bag and the user. This answer falls into the top mark band. 11

Question 9 9(a) This was reasonably well answered although not in as much detail as the equivalent 8(a) question. As with similar questions about synthetic fibres, there is little accurate knowledge and real understanding. Polyester is a commonly used fibre in modern fabrics and candidates should be aware of its properties and uses, and be prepared to write in some detail about them. This is a good response showing knowledge of polyester and applying it to the jacket. There is some misunderstanding about polyester being windproof a tight weave would contribute to that property, not the polyester content. The answer would have been improved with some reference to the washability of the fabric, but it is nevertheless detailed and falls into the top mark range. 12 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

There is little accurate and relevant information here and this answer falls into the lower mark range. 13

9(b) 40% of candidates answering this question scored no marks, as few appeared to be familiar with this increasingly common modern fabric finish. Many made a guess and achieved one mark but there were few good answers. This candidate has earned 2 of the 3 marks for identifying the stain and water repellent properties conferred by the finish. There are no creditworthy points in this answer. 14 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

9(c) Candidates had obviously used past papers to revise the uses of lining in fashion products and there were some detailed and well considered points. A detailed explanation which includes the major reasons why the jacket would be lined. This was given four marks. 9(d) Candidates were knowledgeable and many scored well on this part. There was, however, some confusion as a significant number thought that piping prevents fraying of fabric edges. One of the few responses with a zero score. 9(e)(i) Those who thought carefully about the function and way in which the flap would be used offered appropriate alternative fastenings. Zips were not considered to be an acceptable fastening and were not given credit. 9(e)(ii) Credit was given for considered comparison between poppers and the alternative fastener selected by the candidate, even when the alternative named in part (i) was inappropriate. Generally candidates scored well here although there were many vague descriptions rather than effective comparisons. 15

A clear comparison with Velcro, although some lack of understanding about rusting poppers they are made from plastic or a non-rusting metal! This answer was given a high mark. 9(f) As with the topstitching in question 8, candidates scored well This is a very detailed answer well worth full marks. However, this candidate has written much more than is required for a 2 mark question, especially with regard to the second point where it would have been sufficient to say that top-stitching adds strength to the seams. 16 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

Section C Product analysis is a popular coursework activity and candidates who are practised in analysing a wide variety of different textile products are better equipped to answer this type of question on the written paper. Question 10 10(a) The needs of the target market were carefully analysed resulting in some high scores for this part of the question. Colour and pattern of the fabrics, size and facial features of the doll and health and safety issues were the most common points raised. There was some lack of clarity about who the labelling would be targeted at as, according to some, there are a number of precocious toddlers who would go to choose and buy a toy for themselves. A typically detailed and considered response given a high mark. 17

The points in this answer are limited to colour and texture with few specific examples. It was given 2 marks. 10(b) Although there was knowledge of polyester fibre filling, many did not relate it specifically to the doll, leading to some very generalised points, e.g. it s water resistant so good if it rains. A full mark explanation which refers to the main reasons why polyester fibre has been used to fill the doll. There are some incorrect and irrelevant points eg the references to absorbency and strength but there is sufficient correct and clearly explained information to warrant the award of this high mark. 18 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

This less detailed answer was awarded 2 marks. 10(c) It was expected that candidates would make connections between the fabrics used for the doll and the need for the advised care. Most candidates made a sound attempt to explain the meaning of the symbols, although there was confusion with those for dry cleaning and tumble drying, and many did not appear to know the bleaching symbol. Few were able to relate these with any understanding to the doll. This area of the specification is tested regularly and, whilst there is awareness of the fact that wool can shrink if washed inappropriately, candidates need to develop understanding of how care advice relates to the thermoplastic nature of synthetic fibres. The candidate has correctly identified the meaning of 4 of the 5 symbols and there is some attempt to explain why the care was recommended. The explanation is couched in generalised terms without reference to the specific fabric qualities. 3 marks were awarded. 19

This is a better response which would fall into the top mark band. There is accurate reference to the properties of the various fabrics used as well as an explanation of four of the five symbols; the do not dry clean symbol regularly poses a problem for candidates. 20 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

A very poor answer which was given 1 mark. 10(d) The majority of candidates answered this question well. 10(e) This part of the question was poorly answered as there was little discussion of the potential health and safety issues and the legal requirements placed on manufacturers, and many resorted to copying out the information given on the product labels. The main area of concern was the danger of choking, and there were few who considered issues such as flammability and strangulation. Candidates should be aware that where a large number of marks are allocated to a question, some in-depth discussion of issues is expected. 21

This was one of the better responses with the candidate referring to a number of safety concerns in respect of the toy. There is some irrelevant information about the possibility of suffocation. Although the answer fell into the top mark band it was not given full marks. It could be improved with references to the double lining of the toy body or further explanation of the significance of the labelling. 23

This is a much weaker response with some understanding based on limited information. This answer was given 3 marks. 10(f) Surprisingly, this was not very well answered with only just over 50% of candidates earning two marks here. Many were confused between the legality of copyright and the manufacture and sale of fake products. 24 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

10(g) Just under a third of candidates managed to achieve more than 50% of the marks for this part of the question. Suggestions were fairly basic and related mainly to changes in the style of hair and clothing. There were a few original ideas such as including a voice box, using smart materials to allow facial features to change and making different collectable dolls. Since the original product was described as a first rag doll aimed at children of 12+ months, it might have been a logical step to develop a toy for a slightly older child, yet many of the recommendations appeared to be aimed at teenagers. Although drawings were not necessary they were on the whole very weak. This answer continues on the next page. 25

A number of appropriate modifications have been described in some detail and there is additional information in the diagrams. This answer was awarded full marks. 26 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

There is little indication of how the doll would be modified. The diagram which accompanies this written response adds little other than to show the original doll with a slightly different outfit. This response was given 2 marks. 27

10(h) Responses were disappointing as few went beyond the most basic points about CAM enabling manufacture to be more efficient and accurate. A significant number did not appear to have read the question and concentrated on the benefits of CAD. Examples were usually restricted to pattern layouts and cutting of fabric. This is an important part of the specification and candidates would be well advised to find out and learn about specific ways in which automated manufacturing processes are used in the textiles industry. When responding to this type of question, candidates need to be able to give specific and accurate detail, including appropriate examples, and to consider a number of different benefits. This is a basic explanation which concentrates on the benefits of computerised lay plans and cutting of fabric. The candidate has not considered the wider benefits of computerised manufacture and the answer was awarded only 2 marks. 28 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved

This answer continues on the next page. 29

This candidate shows detailed and specific knowledge of the benefits of computerised manufacture and has provided appropriate examples to support the points made. It is well worth full marks. 30 Copyright 2009 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved