DHA 1221: Fundamentals of Apparel Assembly Fall 2009 212 McNeal Hall M, W 11:45-1:40 (Sec. 001) 1:55-3:50 (Sec. 002) Professor: Gahring Office: 352 McNeal Hall Phone: 612-624-1708 E-mail: sgahring@che.umn.edu Office Hours: By appointment DHA 1221 Course Objectives: To learn principles of structuring and assembling clothing that relates to original design and production To become proficient at using equipment used for clothing assembly including domestic sewing machines, assembly and finishing tools, etc. to achieve professional results in sewn garments. Student Learning Outcome: This course addresses the University of Minnesota Learning Outcome Core Component #3 Students will master a body of knowledge and mode of inquiry. Students will accomplish this by learning and applying garment assembly fundamentals by creating several basic garments from commercial patterns and documenting knowledge learned by creating a samples technique notebook. The Clothing Design Program at the University of Minnesota is highly competitive. Clothing Assembly Fundamentals is a pre-requisite for Studio I and it is important for you to excel in this course as a Pre-Clothing Design major. In order to pass this course and proceed to Studio I you must obtain a minimum score of 70% on the Sewing Proficiency Final Exam which will be given at the end of the semester and also obtain a minimum average score of 70% on all assigned class projects. Clothing Design Portfolio Review, which showcases your major coursework throughout your first year, takes place following Studio I at the end of Spring Semester. This Portfolio Review is a very selective process conducted by the Clothing Design faculty and will determine if you are fully accepted into the Clothing Design Program. Expectations: Attendance and performance Attendance is absolutely essential and entirely your responsibility, as are the consequences of your actions. Attendance for every class and staying for the entire class period is required. Attendance will be taken at the beginning of each class period if you arrive late you will be marked absent for that class. You are required to be on time for each class, participate in discussions and critique of your own and other s work. Come to class with the necessary supplies/fabric and be prepared to
work the full time. Students with more than 2 unexcused absences will receive a reduction of 2 letter grades from their earned grade (i.e. an A becomes a C) and three unexcused absences will receive an F as the final grade. (Absences will be excused only in documented extenuating circumstances. Your instructor must be notified of this documentation within one week following absence see attendance policy on page 4 of this syllabus.) Use your absences wisely! All assignments are due at the beginning of class unless otherwise noted. All work should be neat, accurate, and carefully completed. Late work will be accepted at the following class meeting only (at the beginning of the class period), and will be marked down one full letter grade. Incompletes will be given only in cases of documented illness for yourself or family emergency. At least 75% of coursework completed with a passing grade is required for an incomplete. A contract for completion of the class must be agreed upon by student and professor before the end of finals week and filed in the department office. Professional and ethical behavior is required. Work that is done only outside of class is grounds for failure. Use of copyrighted materials without permission, or negligence in citing sources is also grounds for failure. Appropriate, respectful behavior is expected of everyone. Students who need special accommodations are responsible for working with the instructor and the relevant University offices. If you have any special classroom requirements (seat assignment, learning disability, etc.), please meet with the instructor the first week of class to arrange accommodations. House Rules: The designated class hours are intended for studio work. Skill development and design creativity thrive in an atmosphere of open interchange among your peers. Be sure to ask for help if needed and report ANY problems. You are responsible for cleaning up your own work area at the end of each class session See Studio Rules. No cell phones, pagers, ipods, or other electronic headset devices of any kind are allowed during class time. Shoes must be worn at all times while in the studio this is a safety requirement. Class Format: A. Sample Notebook of Assembly Techniques: Each student will be required to complete a notebook of sample construction techniques. Fabric, thread, and zippers will be provided by your instructor. These samples will cover assembly techniques such as seams, seam finishes, zippers, hems, sleeves, collars, waistbands, etc. Specific information about these notebooks along with patterns will be given on a separate handout. B. Assembly/Construction of Three Garments: During the semester each student will construct three garments using commercial patterns and woven cotton fabric. Garment #1 will be a child s top and coordinating capri pants with elastic waist.
(Required pattern will be provided by your instructor). Garment #2 will be a skirt with zipper and waistband. (Required pattern will be determined by your instructor.) Garment #3 will be a shirt or blouse with rolled collar, set-in sleeves, cuffs with placket, front button closures, etc. (Required shirt pattern is McCall s 5052). C. Exams: I. One written exam will be given at mid- term. The exam will consist of multiple choice, true/false, open-ended, etc. The test questions will come from in class discussion and textbook information. II. A final exam for the course is a timed sewing proficiency exam. This exam is intended to show how well you can apply the information, techniques, and skills you learned throughout the semester. Pattern and fabric will be provided by the instructor. This exam will count for 50% of your total course grade. U of M Grading definitions: A-F grades will be assigned in accordance with the following University of Minnesota definitions; plus or minus indicate performance relative to the letter grade definition A B C D F achievement outstanding relative to the level necessary to meet course requirements ( excellent above and beyond; initiative, creativity) achievement significantly above the level necessary to meet course requirements ( good ) achievement that meets the basic course requirements in every respect ( just fine ) achievement worthy of credit even though it does not fully meet the basic course requirements in every respect performance that fails to meet basic course requirements and is unworthy of credit Grading for DHA 1221: 3 Garment Assembly Projects 30% Samples Notebook 10% Mid-term exam 10% Sewing Proficiency Exam 50% Class Attendance Required Text/Handbook
Singer Sewing Reference Library. (1996). The New Sewing Essentials. Cowles Creative Publishing, Inc. Minnetonka, Minnesota. Supplemental Textbook: The New Complete Guide to Sewing. (2003). Reader s Digest Editors. Required Supplies: Notebook for assignments 3 ring binder hardcover notebook with 3 spine for sample techniques Plastic binder sleeves (one per sample) ½ transparent scotch tape Sewing box Straight pins Pincushion Hand Sewing Needles (size 10 sharps) Shears for cutting fabric Scissors for cutting paper 6 clear plastic ruler Marking pen, wax or tailor s chalk Tracing wheel/carbon paper Seam Ripper Tape Measure Class Attendance Policy: When students willfully miss class, instructors are under no obligation to help them make up work. However, the following reasons justify absences and makeup requests: (a) illness certified by the Boynton Health Service or another physician; (b) death of parent, sibling, or grandparent (proof of funeral attendance must be supplied) (c) participation in religious observances with advance instructor notification and (d) participation, certified by the Office for Student Affairs (Office of the Registrar St. Paul, 190 Coffey Hall), in University approved co-curricular activities
Date Monday Wednesday September Assignment: pp. 1-23 in textbook 9/7 9/9 No class/university Holiday Machine Basics and Practice 9/14-9/16 9/21-9/23 9/28-9/30 10/5-10/7 Bring sewing supplies to class Assignment: Read pp. 24-45 Exercises 1 & 2; **Purchase fabric & thread for child s garment by Sept. 30 Instructor must approve Work on Sample Notebook Seams and Seam Finishes Exercises 5 & 6 ** Reminder to purchase fabric & thread for child s garment instructor must approve Creating Shape (2-D to 3-D): Darts, gathers, pleats, princess seam Exercise 4 Exercises 1, 2, 4, 5, & 6 Due Begin working on Garment #1 Assembly Preparation: Layout, cutting, marking, facings Assembly methods: Seams and Seam Finishes; Pressing Assignment: Read pp. 46-78 Exercises 5 & 6 Creating Shape (2-D to 3-D): Darts, gathers, pleats, princess seam Exercise 4 Assignment: Read pp. 79-99 Finishing Edges: Neckline Facing: Exercise 7 Assignment: Read pp. 100-105 Bring fabric for child s garment Work on Garment #1 Exercise 7 Due Exercise 3 (Finishing Techniques) Assignment: Read pp. 132-141 10/12-10/14 10/19-10/21 10/26 10/28 11/2 11/4 11/09 11/11 11/16 11/18 11/23 11/25 11/30 12/2 12/7 12/9 12/14 12/16 Work on Garment #1 Closure Techniques: Zippers (lapped and centered) Exercise 8 Work on Sample Notebooks Waistbands- Exercise 9 (Exercises 3 & 8 Due) Garment 1 Due Exercise 11 (buttonholes) Begin work on Garment 2 Work on Garment 2 Designed Edges: Peter Pan Collars Exercise 12 Work on Garment 2 Exercise 11 and 12 Due Garment 2 Due Exercise 14 (Closures/Designed: Cuffs, plackets) Work on Garment 3 Exercise 14 Due Work on Garment #1 Finishing Edges: Waistbands Exercise 8 & 9 Assignment: Read pp. 109-115 Work on Sample Notebooks Exercise 10 (Hems) Assignment: Read pp. 120-131 Mid-term exam Exercises 9 and 10 Due Assignment: Read pp. 105-108 Work on Garment 2 Designed Edges: Rolled Collars Exercise 13 Assignment: Review pp. 80-81 Exercise 13 due Begin work on Garment 3 Exercise 15 (Tailored structure: Setin Sleeves) Work on Garment 3 Exercise 15 Due Work on Garment 3 Work on Garment 3 Sample Notebooks Due (No later) Work on Garment 3 Garment 3 Due Sewing Proficiency Exam (Group I) Sewing Proficiency Exam (Group II)